The Secret to Longevity: How to Clean, Lubricate, and Tighten Your Motorcycle Chain (Step-by-Step)
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It's the part that suffers the most on your motorcycle and, ironically, the one we most often forget about. The drive chain withstands the brute force of the engine, rain, dirt, and heat, all to ensure that the rear wheel spins when you accelerate.
Ignoring the chain is dangerous. A dry chain or one with the wrong slack steals power, makes horrible noises, and in the worst-case scenario, it can break while riding , destroying the engine crankcase or locking the wheel (which can lead to a nasty fall).

The good news? Keeping the chain spotless takes 15 minutes and saves hundreds of dollars on new drivetrain kits. Let's get to work.
Step 1: The "Bath" (Cleansing)
Never lubricate a dirty chain. You will create an abrasive paste that corrodes the O-rings (rubber seals).
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Raise the rear wheel: Use the center stand or a swingarm stand.
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The Right Product: Use a specific chain cleaner or, failing that, kerosene (illuminating oil). NEVER use gasoline , as it "cooks" and destroys the rubber O-rings.
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Scrub: Using a dedicated brush (or an old toothbrush), scrub the links to remove that black, pasty grease.
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Rinse and Dry: Wipe with a cloth to remove dirt. The most important thing here is to dry the chain thoroughly before moving on to the next step.
Step 2: The "Drink" (Lubrication)
The best time to lubricate is after riding the motorcycle , when the chain is warm. The heat helps the oil penetrate the links.
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Where to apply: Do not spray on the outside of the plates (this will only soil the rim). Aim the spray inwards , directly onto the rollers (the cylindrical parts that make contact with the teeth of the rack).
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Rotate slowly: Rotate the wheel by hand while applying a thin, even coat.
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Let it dry: Wait 10-15 minutes before riding, for the solvent to evaporate and the compound to become tacky (otherwise it will splatter all over your back during the first acceleration).
Step 3: The Tension (Neither too tight nor too loose)
A chain that is too tight can break the drive sprocket shaft. A chain that is too loose will whip and wear out the chain and sprocket.
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The 2-3 cm Rule: Find the midpoint of the chain (at the bottom, between the sprocket and the chainring).
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The Test: Push the chain up and down. It should have a vertical slack of about 20mm to 30mm (always check your motorcycle's manual, as off-road bikes need more slack).
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Adjustment: If adjustment is needed, loosen the wheel axle, adjust the tensioners equally on both sides (use the marks on the scale to align), and tighten the axle again to the correct torque.
Pro Tip: Smooth Transmission, Smooth Navigation
Now that your chain is silent and the power delivery is smooth and immediate, you'll feel the bike much more "connected" to the asphalt. It's a feeling of total control.
But there's another loose "piece" that might be spoiling the smoothness of your driving: your navigation.
What good is having the transmission finely tuned if you end up with a bumpy ride because your phone shakes in its holder or you can't see the output on the GPS? Just as the current needs the right voltage to work, so does your attention.

Motoplay eliminates the "gap" in your information. With a fixed, stable, and highly visible screen, you ensure that information (Waze, Music, Calls) reaches your eyes as smoothly as power reaches your wheel.
Keep the mechanics lubricated and the technology finely tuned.
👉 [Stretch your technology: Discover Motoplay here]